Hacking / Converting a Canon 18-55mm EF-S lens (non IS) to fit a Canon
First and foremost, nobody at devilgas photographic
will take any responsibility whatsoever for any damage caused to any
equipment as a result of following the text and/or images found upon
this page. We accept no responsibility for the content presented here.
If you are chimp enough to break anything you or somebody
else owns because you decided to follow what I've done, that
is solely down to you. Quite simply, you are responsible
for your actions.
Ok, now the stupidly necessary legal bit is squared away, down to business....
This work is not original. It came about after reading how to modify
the above lens on Bob Atkins site, specifically, here
What is presented here are my findings on attempting something uncannily
First, and foremost, the following butchery is done to the cheap, plastic
18-55mm kit lens, not the more expensive image stabilised (IS) version.
I'm reliably infomed that the IS version has extra electronics - presumably
the IS itself - mounted within the plastic that gets chopped off.
I won't go too much into the nitty gritty of the lens mounts and mirrors,
but suffice to say that the kit lens supplied with the 300D can be modified
to fit a 10D. The EFS mount contains additional material to protect
the lens elements that protrude further from the lens body than standard
EF lenses. It is this protrusion that causes problems with EF mount
cameras, specifically the mirror. The 10D has a smaller mirror than
say the 1D or film cameras, which will *just* miss the glass elements
when it operates. What we do here is to remove the protecting material
to enable the lens to mount to a standard EF lens mount.
This lens has not been tested on anything other than a 10D, and I'm
led to believe if it's tried on a 1D etc then the mirror will
strike the glass elements at the wide angle setting. Certainly, looking
at where the elements end up at full WA, they protrude significantly
past the electrical connector block. Seeing this, it's highly likely
it will hit the mirror on anything other than a 10D or possibly
First, make sure you have a small jewellers Phillips / cross-head screwdriver.
I used a No.00 x 50 (see the photo a bit later on) which was part of
a Precision Screwdriver set from Focus DIY (UK). This perfectly fit
all 6 screws you need to play around with. There are 4 small screws
and 2 very small screws to remove. If you have the wrong size screwdriver,
you will likely strip the head and that'll be end of sports.
The 4 small screws are quite easily spotted as they are nearly at the
12,3,6 and 9 o'clock positions on the mount as you look at it. The screws
are highlighted below in red.
The 2 very small screws are neatly hidden and hold the electrical connector
block in place.
All of the screws need to be removed. Start with the electrical connector
ones. The screws don't appear to have any thread lock on them as they
undid quite easily. You will need to be careful not to slip with the
screwdriver as the screw heads are easily damaged. Don't be tempted
to use a flat blade screwdriver that 'fits'. This will most likely spoil
If you're not confident in removing the screws perhaps a local jeweller
may help? Just remember though, the risk is yours, not theirs.
Once all of the screws are removed, store them safely! They are very
easily lost so put them into a sealable container. An old film (remember
that stuff?) canister will do.
You should now have the EFS mount free from the lens:-
It's worthwhile removing the small rubber gasket, but it's probably
Now you need a few junior hacksaw blades - I used 3 as the material
the mount is made from (some kind of graphite plastic) gets through
the blades at quite a rate. I opted to use the blades without the hacksaw
handle to get a little more control. Took the best part of 30 mins to
carefully cut through the mount. You should now have the following pieces.
Dont' get rid of the inner piece just yet as it can be re-used to make
the lens look a little nicer later on. If you haven't done so already,
get rid of the rubber bit. It's now simply a case of using some sandpaper
to smooth everything off and get the inner ring you've just created
flush with the surround.
I cleaned all the excess material off using a toothbrush under running
water, and obviously allowed it to dry thoroughly before the final step.
Now it's just a simple matter of screwing it all back together (there's
a pair of thin metal gaskets that need to be lined up) and building
the courage to try it on your expensive 10D
Tested mine at full zoom and full wide angle and there were no dodgy
sounds of breaking glass, so, the surgery was a success!
Judicious use of e-bay and a grand total of £70 (the screwdrivers
cost £7.50!!!) has seen me getting a wide angle lens for the 10D.
Now some extra, probably only cosmetic, surgery. The inner piece can
be re-worked to help hide all of the electronics. I have no idea if
this will make any difference to the image. It may reduce internal
reflections in the lens, then again, that may not be an issue.
The little plastic piece can be remounted on the inside of the new EF
mount. First though, you'll need to remodel 3 parts of it. Initially,
you'll need to create a cut out so that it may fit around the plastic
piece that holds the elctronics connector block.
Then, you will need to cut out the innermost rim so that the lens can
move freely the full length of the tube. The image below shows the job
half complete. Hot melt glue was used to hold the two plastic pieces
together. Very much a Blue Peter special. (Blue Peter - kids TV show
from the UK that used the immortal phrase on most projects "double
sided sticky tape for speed")
Finally, you will need to remove about 5mm or so from the bottom of
the tube so that the lens doesn't hit the base of the tube. It'll all
be pretty clear what needs to be removed when you try it.
I'll be perfectly honest, I used a small pair of wire cutters to do
this. Probably not the best tool for the job but I couldn't be bothered
spending a lot of time on it. It does explain the strange marks on the
Neither myself, www.devilgas.com, my family, my friends, my pets or my vampire
bat take any responsibility whatsoever for any damage caused to anything
or anyone by duplicating what I've done. If you feel confident in not
destroying your expensive digital imaging equipment by trying this little
ditty, that's your choice and not mine.
|| 4th Nov 2007
||Extra stuff about IS added - thanks to Nathaniel Courtens
|| 16th Sept 2004
||Re-used the inner piece to tidy things
up a little
|| 6th Sept 2004
||Final photos added. Cheers Mr K!
|| 6th Sept 2004
||Lens mount notes added
|| 5th Sept 2004
||5th Sept 2004
||EF compatibility text amended
||5th Sept 2004